I have already started to fall behind. Not a great start...
The Sunday before last, I wanted to explore Gurgaon. I figured if I am to live here, I better start acting like a local. I googled "attractions in Gurgaon" and the Sheetla Mata Mandir (Mandir means "Hindu temple") was one of the top results. The google map images made it look like a relatively quiet locale with shaded benches and green gardens so I packed a book and set out. My first sign of trouble was the confused look I got from my taxi driver. I'm used to people not understanding me because of my accent but the expression stayed on his face even after I showed him my phone. I took the look as confusion on the exact location but in hindsight I think it was closer to "Why does he want to go there?!"
After dropping me off, I understood.
To say I was the only white person within a half mile radius is a drastic understatement. I'm used to sticking out here (I am slightly taller than the average Indian) but this was a whole new level. The stares would not end until I made it back to the car.
The front gate was closed so I followed the wave of people through a side gate. There was a security checkpoint that was ignored by everyone so I followed suit. I walked into the first dirt patch and realized that this was once one of the gardens. The mandir is a huge structure, painted in orange and white stripes with decorative statues and figures surrounding.
It was beautiful to see and I decided I needed to go inside the inner gates. If I'm here, I should experience it all! All of the signage was in Hindi so I found the entrance by locating the largest mob of people. I have an irrational fear that someone will steal my shoes here. No one will fit in them but they may take them as proof to show future generations that some people have to wear clown shoes as normal shoes. I tried my best to place my shoes out of reach of everyone but the most desperate thief. I followed the crowd forward and tried to respectfully mimic any actions that everyone performed. Hanging above the doorway was a large bell with smaller bells along the arched frame. I followed the leader and rang the bell before proceeding inside.
There was a prayer line for the alter but I was intimidated by the process so I skipped that to save face. Inside was calmer and I was able to enjoy myself (no reading spot but the crush of other humans was gone for once). I walked near the various alters and watched as people gave thanks and said prayers for loved ones. It was a sight to see as every person chose different gods and prayed in differing fashions. It seemed both more and less structured than religions I am more familiar. While the prayers seemed more fluid in form, the individuals praying focused intently on the words and rhythm.
I walked down a flight of stairs behind a small group. Each stopped at a man who put a small mark on their foreheads. I attempted to walk by as I did not want to be offensive but the man pulled me in and placed the "tika" on me. I felt even more stares as I continued down the path. A man sitting at an alter started speaking very fast Hindi at me. I froze and he realized his mistake in my dumbfounded expression. He pointed to the table and said, "100 rupees". I told him I didn't have a 100 note. He then said, "500 rupee". I told him he was going the wrong way. He returned the look I had given him. I examined the table and saw that he had one 100 rupee note and a pile of 10's and I realized his game. I put some money on the table and continued on my way.
After walking around for a few more minutes, I decided to find an exit. Everyone seemed to be walking the opposite way we entered but I was still nervous about my shoes and didn't want to walk across the entire temple to get them back. I made the decision to fight upstream to get back to the entrance. I tried to find the path of least resistance but that's impossible when you are me so I got some dirty looks. I made it to the door with the bells but it was very crowded and there were several small children standing in the way. I did not want to crush anyone so I had to pay very close attention to the ground in front of me. I successfully navigated through the children and I looked up just in time to SMACK my head on a small bell. The amount of people staring increased tenfold. I had to get out quickly. I found my shoes (thank goodness) and made my way to my taxi. I went straight home and called it a day.
This past Sunday, I went to a movie with my coworker and his family. The film is called Raees (pronounced rah-EESE). It's a fictional tale of smuggling based on the real life prohibition in the state of Gujarat (Northwestern state of India, just south of Pakistan). The film stars Shah Rukh Khan, one of the superstars in Bollywood (similar level to DiCaprio or Hanks). We ordered food to be brought at intermission (you read that right) and then went into the theater.
I have learned many things in my day but Hindi is not one of them. The dialogue was lost on me and it's harder than you may think to blindly attempt to express the right emotion for three hours. The action scenes were understandable but I was thrown for a loop when the entire cast broke out into song six times throughout the film. Think West Side Story or Glee. This is not simple melodies or short tunes, this is a full stop of the action with choreographed dances for the entirety of the ballad.
If you listen to the radio here, a large portion of songs are from various movies. Every Bollywood (India's movie capital, located in Mumbai) movie has several musical numbers that make up the soundtrack. And with around 1,000 movies per year (double Hollywood's output), you can only imagine the number of songs that are created this way.
It was a fascinating experience and I highly recommend finding a way to watch one of these films (subtitles suggested).
No comments:
Post a Comment